STELLA JEAN  –voluminous sleeves/skirts

Stella Jean’s ready-to-wear Spring/Summer collection is another presentation of bold colours, ethnic prints and continuous experiments with volume. While other brands preferred to focus on creating volume in one designated spot, for instance, sleeves, Stella Jean proved that voluminous skirts might as well go in harmony with voluminous sleeves. Another idea that stole our attention, (and hearts) is how the designer combined an open shoulder trend with putting a voluminous sleeve on the other. 

FENDI — voluminous jackets 

Fendi is another fashion brand that has a reputation for knowing how to deal with merging their classic name and modern trends into one. Just like that for Spring/Summer 2021, they showed astonishing feminine looks, mostly in neutral colours, yet a very airy, spring-appropriate approach. The volume trend was seen less than at Loewe runway, yet they found ways to add it into oversized jackets, bell sleeves and skirts. 

By regenerating the post-sale, post-season lifespan of their garments, Isabel Marant is making a radical step towards sustainability. Alongside year-round collections, the platform will offer consumers the opportunity to save some money, save the environment, and discover unique vintage pieces.

To measure this, the report focused on three concepts: who decides about health care, who decides about birth control use, and who decides about sex. Not all women can make decisions about birth control, health care and sexual relations. 45% lack such autonomy.

In addition to that, the report also discusses the following points:

– Only 75% of countries legally guarantee full and equal access to contraceptives.

– Only about 80% of countries have laws that support sexual health and well-being. – Only about 56% of countries have laws and policies that support comprehensive sexuality education.

– Twenty countries or territories have laws against spousal rape, which means that a man can escape criminal prosecution if he marries the woman or girl he raped.

– More than 30 countries restrict women’s right to leave their homes.

– Children with disabilities are almost three times more likely to become victims of sexual violence, and girls are at the greatest risk.

This is something that should make us all angry, we need collective action, and we need to unite to remove the norms, laws and practices that violate people’s autonomy.

Although these data are focused on the bodily autonomy of women and children, we must be clear that every person should be empowered to claim bodily autonomy. This includes men, women, boys and girls, who have diverse sexual orientations and gender expressions. It includes people of all races, ethnicities, religions, nationalities and disabilities. The report says that men can also experience violations of bodily autonomy, for example, through non-consensual invasive anal examinations. People of all genders can be victims of forced reproduction (behavior that interferes with another person’s reproductive choices) and even rape.

SPICES AND THE ENVIRONMENT

UNETHICAL PRACTICES

The spices industry heavily relies on the exploitation of small local farmers. These workers are often unfairly paid, and face poverty and food insecurity. The poor labour conditions also threaten field workers, often women and children, on the farms and in the processing operations. Rik Kutsch Lojenga, Executive Director of UEBT, a global expert on ethical sourcing of botanicals explained the need for sustainable spices: “Depending on the crop and country, herbs and spices production faces various social challenges including not paying minimum or living wages to workers, not paying decent prices for local farmers, and in some cases child work.”

Due to the lack of supervision over supply chains, the environment is neglected. Poor agricultural practices, and uncontrolled agrochemical use results in large amounts of wastewater and pollution. “There are also environmental challenges such as over-reliance on agrochemicals leading to contamination of fields and waterways.” – Rik continues –  “In addition, herbs and spices production relies on healthy functioning ecosystems but changing weather conditions due to climate change, land degradation, and soil depletion are adversely affecting production in many regions around the world.”

By following sustainable practices, farmers can significantly reduce the negative impacts on the environment. This means that the sustainable production of spices becomes an important element in a diversified farmer livelihood strategy, strengthening smallholder households’ economic resilience.

EXTENDED SUPPLY CHAIN

Extended supply chains are used by large companies to transport exotic goods. Our pineapples and mangos travel thousands of miles before they reach our kitchens, passing over various suppliers and distributors. Due to how large this chain is, it is easy for exploitation to take place. Often, the farmers at the beginning of this chain are paid almost nothing, yet these large corporations are taking home millions of revenues. The long chains ensure exploitation continues, alongside a lack of transparency over environmental concerns.

CAN SPICES EVEN BE SUSTAINABLE?

FAIRTRADE SPICES

Fairtrade spices are a great option to look for in your local supermarket. Fairtrade certification focuses on reducing poverty in supply chains by providing ethical wages for workers. For several long-standing Fairtrade herbs and spices, such as rooibos and vanilla, there is a Fairtrade Minimum Price aimed at covering the costs of sustainable production, as well as a Fairtrade Premium on top of that price. To improve local communities, Fairtrade created the Fairtrade premium to help invest in education and healthcare for the farmers and labourers.

SINGLE-ORIGIN SPICES

Single-origin spices also give back to the farmers and their communities. By removing the middleman in the supply chain, the consumer instead buys straight from the source. This makes the supply chain not only more sustainable but also more ethical. Single-origin spices are also known to be of better quality and have a greater flavour, due to more transparency over the storing and age of spices in the chain.

GROW YOUR OWN

This requires a bit of a green thumb, but growing your own spices is a great way to source sustainable and affordable flavour right in your own home. This is limited depending on the climate you live in. But many spices can be grown and dried at home. Coriander, mustard, and garlic are some great options for those starting out. Make sure you store your spices in airtight containers, in a place without direct sunlight.

With a surge in the popularity of sustainable fabrics, innovation and diversification are rocking the future of fashion. Something is clear: the increasing demand for responsibly-sourced textiles.

PHA CARBON CAPTURE MATERIALS

Amongst mycelium and fruit-based leather, we were also introduced to new possibilities this year. A new option for synthetic dye fibres has joined the conversation. Carbon capture materials, called PHA are a new, radical contribution to the solving of C02 emissions. Innovators in this field include Mango Materials, Lanzatech, and Air Carbon and Fabrics.

The material is so new, that the technology still hasn’t been completed for it to be a viable option for fabric. Yet. Innovations in the curation process, led by Mango Materials are paving the way for more companies to look toward PHA.

WHAT IS PHA?

PHA is a material that only started to be explored in 2018, and whose technology and potential are still waiting to be realised. PHA is a type of polyester, which can be used as a replacement for fibre and leather.

PHAs are produced through a fermentation process using various carbon-based feedstocks, including organic food waste, methane gas and captured CO2. The Polyester has various mechanical and chemical properties. Its main use in the fashion industry is as a replacement for conventional synthetic fibres.

PHA has been used to make packaging products but so far it has had limited use in replacing synthetic fibres. The technology needed is still in early development. Whilst some companies have been successful in creating PHA-based clothing, the process remains expensive. Alongside this, only a handful of companies currently produce PHA meaning supply is limited.

AGRICULTURAL WASTE

Another new option to take centre stage is agricultural waste. A replacement for the tree’s dwindling supply of viscose. The Laudes Foundation, launched in 2020, was a leading voice at this year’s Expo for agricultural waste and its potential. Inspired by their recent Spinning Future Threads report.

Nanollose, a leading biotechnology company is also paving the way for research. The Australian start-up uses industrial agricultural waste to create microbial cellulose. Creating rayon fibres without the need for trees.

WHY AGRICULTURAL WASTE AND FASHION?

Agricultural waste poses a significant challenge for farmers in Southeast Asia. The waste is often useless, leading it to be burned and creating large quantities of greenhouse emissions. According to Fashion for Good, up to 92 million tonnes of agricultural waste is burned annually in India alone. Agricultural waste is arguably an untapped resource, we need to find a way to repurpose.

Fashion for Good’s recent report ‘Unlocking the Trillion-Dollar Fashion Decarbonisation Opportunity’, charts the financial trajectory of the fashion industry to meet the net-zero ambition.  The report estimates $1 trillion dollars is needed to finance the decarbonisation of the fashion industry. According to Fashion for Good “Raw Material innovation is essential to reducing these emissions, and the next generation of materials are key if the industry is to decarbonise its supply chain.”

It is no secret that ethically sourced garments, plastic-free beauty products, and meat-free alternatives often cost more money to produce than unsustainable alternatives. Often the price of ethically sourced items dissuades people from purchasing them, reducing the positive impact they could have if they were used on a mass scale.

A sustainable lifestyle needs to be accessible for people of all financial backgrounds, so everyone is able to do what they can to help the planet. However, this is difficult. Sustainable products usually cost more because the manufacturers are paying their workers a proper wage and the materials used are better quality and more expensive; so how can sustainability become more accessible?

A sustainable lifestyle doesn’t have to cost more money. It turns out, there are many ways to live sustainably without breaking the bank. Read on to find out just how you can live an eco-friendly lifestyle for less.

ACCESSIBLE SUSTAINABILITY: FASHION

BUY SECOND HAND

Sustainable fashion does not have to be expensive. Shopping second-hand, in charity shops or online (Vinted, Depop, eBay), is both fun and affordable! You can find unique pieces for low prices – it’s a win-win. But if second-hand shopping isn’t your thing, there are other ways to shop sustainably for less.

INVEST IN HIGH-QUALITY PIECES

Buying less is an affordable way to make your wardrobe more sustainable. Making the most of your existing clothes and reevaluating if you really need something is the easiest way to reduce your wardrobe’s carbon footprint. Investing in quality clothes made by workers who are paid a fair wage is very important. If you buy well made clothes they will last a long time and you can save money in the long term by reducing the need to replace items regularly.

VISIT FLEA MARKETS AND JUMBLE SALES

If you are into second-hand shopping, flea markets and jumble sales make a great weekend activity. You can find second-hand items for under £1! Keep fashion circular and see if there are any flea markets or jumble sales near you.

ACCESSIBLE SUSTAINABILITY: FOOD

DITCH THE ALL OR NOTHING MINDSET

Don’t use the fact that some vegan products are more expensive as an excuse not to integrate plant-based alternatives into your lifestyle. The all-or-nothing mentality is not beneficial to anyone. If you can only afford to switch some of your pantry to the vegan alternative, that’s fine. Even treating yourself to a more expensive (vegan) item from the store once in a while is a step in the right direction. By buying plant-based groceries you contribute to the supply and demand of quality and ethical products.

BUY BEANS AND PULSES

Beans and pulses are some of the cheapest products in the supermarket. They are healthy, filling, and vegan. You can make so many different meals from vegetables and pulses for less than £1 a portion. Try a one-pot chilli, lentil dhal, lentil bolognese, or chickpea curry. Cooking with veg, pulses, and beans makes it very easy to meal prep. These ingredients are low risk when reheated, and ideal for batch cooking. Meal prepping food saves you a lot of money and prevents you from eating out, as you already have a delicious meal waiting for you at home.

EAT WHAT YOU BUY

It may sound obvious, but do not buy more food until you have finished what you already have. This will reduce food waste and enable you to get the most out of what you have in the cupboard. It is easy to buy more exciting foods whilst old items perish and get thrown away. This is not only a waste of money but also a waste of food. Use everything you have before you buy more and your wallet and the earth will thank you.

ACCESSIBLE SUSTAINABILITY: BEAUTY

USE FEWER PRODUCTS

Using fewer products is better for your skin, the planet, and your bank account. Advertisements and beauty standards make us feel we need to buy a plethora of products to achieve results. However, overwhelming your skin with chemicals does more harm than good. Narrow your skincare routine down to the essentials. If you buy fewer products (resulting in less waste, less consumption, etc) you will save money. Your skin will thank you for it. A long skincare routine is not always the answer.

BUY FROM BRANDS THAT DON’T TEST ON ANIMALS

Supporting brands that don’t test on animals is an easy way to support the sustainable sector of the beauty industry. Many affordable brands don’t test on animals. You don’t have to buy from the more expensive ethical brands if you cannot afford to. Elf, MaxFactor, Burts Bees, and The Ordinary do not test on animals. If you can afford to support independent and organic skincare brands with plastic-free packaging, go for it. If you have less disposable income, reducing the number of products you use and buying from brands that do not test on animals is the best way to go.

More and more beauty products are being labelled as ‘clean’ and ‘eco friendly’ – but how do we know if this is true? See our article on the truth behind beauty product labels to work out what is actually sustainable and what’s not.

RECYCLE BATHROOM WASTE

Did you know most people do not divide the waste in their bathroom bin into recyclable and non-recyclable rubbish? So much waste derives from the bedroom and bathroom bins where people cannot be bothered to recycle things. Do your bit by committing to recycling your bathroom waste when possible!

ACCESSIBLE SUSTAINABILITY: GENERAL

BUY SECOND-HAND BOOKS

Many sustainable alternatives are cheaper than other options. For example, second-hand books from charity shops, eBay, or online retailers are significantly cheaper than first-hand bookstores. Most second-hand books are still in good condition. If you insist on buying books new, support independent booksellers! Alternatively, visit the library and rent as many books as you like for free without taking up space in your home.

BULK BUY DRY FOODS

Whilst bulk buying can be unsustainable if you buy too much of something and do not use it all, buying dry foods in large quantities is an ethical alternative. Bulk buying rice or pasta will lower the amount of plastic packaging you purchase. One large bag of rice or pasta is less plastic than multiple smaller ones, and it’s cheaper. If you have the financial means, buy from zero waste refill stores to completely eliminate plastic packaging.

Living a sustainable lifestyle does not have to break the bank. Try these affordable alternatives and get the best of both worlds: a sustainable lifestyle for less.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

The Belgian fashion designer Dries van Noten is not just bold when it comes to address unsustainable practices within the fashion industry, but also when it comes to his designs. Dries van Noten’s designs are thoughtful and are represented by confident models. Yet, his collection conveys a sense of community and collaboration. Models are posing together, thereby showcasing the intelligent ways in which the designs work together.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Opaque sunglasses, gaudy lipstick and slicked-back hair is contrasted with mellow garments that emphasize fragility. This year’s collection of the Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli is characterized by shoulder-free and frill designs. In our opinion, the next spring summer season cannot have enough of enticing elegance, especially if the garments originate from a designer in support of sustainable challenges.

ISABEL MARANT

The French designer Isabel Marant’s collection is summery, colourful, stylish yet practical. Her designs combine revealing swimming wear and casual jackets with hoodies. Her outfits are not just made with a high commitment to social and corporate responsibility and are transparent in terms of their environmental impact, but they also prepare you for any volatile weather, which seems essential, considering the rising threat of climate change.

RICK OWENS

Rick Owen’s collection is futuristic and minimalistic and set in a desert like place with sandy colours that contrasts the black, durable leather used for the collection that reminds one of Keanu Reeves in the Matrix. One thing is certain: Rick Owens, who is increasingly experimenting with sustainable practices, such as a sustainable sneaker collection, takes us on a journey to a world much more advanced than ours.

ZIMMERMANN

Zimmermann is a label that designs and crafts their collection with extreme fidelity. Complex, detailed dresses are paired with fishnet tights and classy pumps. Their fashion is designed to last, while using natural materials, such as cotton, hemp, and silk. Besides, the label puts emphasis on a fair und regulated supply chain. Zimmerman is currently dedicated to make their practices even more sustainable.

TRENDS 

All Black Everything: was the go-to style for numerous designers at Paris Fashion Week, despite the usually broad colour variety during spring and summer. Balmain showcased a biker-style outfit with large cut-outs. Comme des Garcons impressed their audience with an all-black dress in shape of a flower, whereas Balcenciaga went for an all-black casual street style.

Strings: This year designers have been busy stringing and tying. Bottercreated a top resembling a fishing net merely out of strings. Chloè created a dress with a décolleté out of strong robes, which tips dangle freely. Lacostetook a different approach. Part of their outfits was a shoulder belts with attached strings that strongly resembles rock-climbing equipment.

Sunglasses: Summer, sun … sunglasses. Designers at Paris Fashion Week worked this year with an eye for great detail, even when it comes to their accessories. Louis Vuitton showcased plant-like sunglasses, which renders its wearer simultaneously mystical and glamorous. In contrast to that, Yohji Yamamoto presented black, oversized sunglasses with horizontal slits instead of glasses.

Chequered Patterns: This spring and summer will be filled with plenty of geometrical shapes. For instance, Chanel, showcased a mini dress, made from numerous square shapes and Paul Smith, who uses organic cotton and recycled plastic bottles crafted a half-sleeve shirt with square shapes in different sizes. Abstract designs were yesterday.

PAINTS

It’s important to know what’s in your paints. Some paints contain solvents which can be released as the paint dries. This can be potentially harmful to humans, but this doesn’t mean that non-toxic paints are harmless to the environment. In the 18^th-century, harmful substances like arsenic and lead were used to create vibrant colors, but these are now banned. Nowadays, you can get imitation pigments that don’t have harmful solvents or metals in them!

Natural Earth Paints use non-toxic and eco-friendly ingredients in their paints, earning them the Gold certification from Green America. The paints are locally made in a solar-powered factory, and use 100% recyclable and biodegradable packaging. The business started when owner, Leah Fanning, couldn’t find non-toxic art supplies and with a baby on the way, she decided to create her own.

Chelsea Classic Studio use oils to make non-toxic and natural art supplies. Using no harsh chemicals, the paints have lavender spike oil in them, giving the paint a gorgeous lavender smell. They also sell lavender and olive oil soap which is great at cleaning paint off hands and brushes.

PAINTBRUSHES

Millions of paintbrushes end up in landfill, with the synthetic and plastic brushes and handles taking hundreds of years to degrade. They cause damage to the environment and leave microplastics in our ecosystems.

Using recycled and sustainable paintbrushes is a great way to be artistic whilst being mindful of our planet. Bamboo is one of the most renewable resources we have to hand, as it quickly replenishes once cut down. They also require little water so using bamboo manufactured for paintbrushes is very sustainable.

Using plant fibers paintbrushes aren’t only going to lessen your carbon footprint, but they are easier to clean without using solvents, and they don’t need to be replaced as there isn’t as much bristle loss as a traditional plastic and glued paintbrush.

You can shop bamboo paintbrushes on sites like Etsy, or at Craftamo, a sustainable art supplies company. Not only do they make eco-friendly and cruelty-free paintbrushes, but they also strive to be as sustainable as can be by using ethically sourced materials. Their paintbrushes are easy to clean, maintain their shape and don’t lose their bristles like traditional synthetic brushes.

CANVASES

Natural Earth Paints show you how to create your own eco-friendly canvas using organic cotton. You can also reuse canvases by panting over old projects or even use hemp as it becomes more widely used.

Hemp is cheaper than linen canvases and despite being slightly different in texture, you can still get incredible pieces from it. Canvases can be the main costs for artists, so reusing canvasses is the best option for those creating art as a hobby. Hemp and linen have been used for centuries and often times when it comes to sustainability, we have to look back at traditional methods in order to create eco-friendly alternatives.